John o’ Groats to Land’s End: Slightly Downhill, Apparently

12 Days | 1493km / 928miles | 15,555m Elevation

Here it is. My John o’ Groats to Land’s End route, starting 15th May. For the majority, I have followed Ride Across Britain’s LEJoG route, in reverse – with one major change: going around the Cairngorms rather than over them. Perhaps a slight compromise on views, but the more accepted route, and saving 1500m of climbing, and perhaps my knees.

Ride Across Britain’s Route

I’ve chosen Ride Across Britain’s route for a few reasons:

• It is mostly on paved roads, rather than gravel or track. I need to ideally keep to roads, or my bike may have a tantrum.
• It keeps to minor roads or B roads, keeping things as safe as possible. I do not want to be dicing with lorries on major roads!
• I trust that Ride Across Britain has chosen a route that is visually appealing. I am pushing heavy mileage each day, and will not have time to make sight-seeing detours.
• Ride Across Britain very kindly share their route on their website! Thank you.

I’m aiming to cycle over 12 days, starting on 15th May, and finishing on Bank Holiday Monday 26th May. That averages approximately 125km per day. The elevation gain is insane, at nearly twice the height of Everest! These are mostly centred around the long, steady climbs of  Scotland and the Lakes, and the shorter but much sharper peaks of Cornwall.

Some argue that doing the intense Cornwall hills first gets them ‘out of the way’, whilst others argue doing Cornwall last gets your body fitter and attuned to the hills. We’ll see! I’ve chosen to go North to South so as to finish near my parents’ – and naturally, because it’s downhill! 😉

Why May?

Other than it fitting well with work commitments, there’s a number of reasons that May is the ideal month. Most of them based on weather conditions.

1. The days are longer, so there’s more time to pedal if needed, less time fumbling for tent pegs in the dark.
2. May is statistically the driest month. Of course that doesn’t really mean anything, but one can hope!
3. It’s also not as hot as the summer months!
4. The prevailing winds are south-to-north for 11 months of the year, but again based on averages, in May the prevailing winds flip to north-to-south.
5. Midges! The dreaded midges of Scotland. They usually appear in June onwards, so fingers crossed I will be too early for the swarms.
6. Finally, campsites should be quieter pre-summer, helpful as I’m not going to be booking in advance. Though I’m mindful it could be difficult in Devon and Cornwall over Bank Holiday weekend.

Day to Day

I’ve split each day up into what I think is achievable. But these day splits are to be taken with a massive pinch of salt. My bike may break. My body may break. Weather. These can, and most likely will all play a role in what I actually do each day. I’ve only booked accommodation at the end of Day 3 in Pitlochry – everything else stays flexible for now.

I’m also exploring whether I can share my live location, without it eating into my phone battery. If I can, I will share details on my socials and here.

Day 1: 15th May – John o’ Groats to Altnaharra
(120km, 1266m elevation)

After arriving in John o’ Groats the day before, and staying at the local B&B, I should be well refreshed for Day 1. It looks like a stunning route along the rugged North Atlantic coast, with some sharp peaks, before wild camping overnight near Altnaharra in the Strathnaver Valley – population 70. Welcome to the Scottish Highlands!

One of the great things about Scotland is wild camping is legal, as long as it’s done responsibly, which gives me a lot of flexibility.

Day 2: 16th May – Altnaharra to Inverness
(134km, 1215m elevation)

Longer peaks but some decent downhills too! I’m so excited for these first few days across the gorgeous Scotland landscape. I imagine cycling through Inverness – my first major settlement – will feel like I’m making solid progress too. I’m heading for a campsite just south of Inverness.

Day 3: 17th May – Inverness to Pitlochry
(128km, 944m elevation)

By circling the Cairngorms, rather than going over the top, I’m saving 1500m of elevation, making Day 3 a surprisingly gentle day! Though I still reach the highest point on the whole journey. For much of the way I’m following the A9 route on the nearby safer National Cycle Route #7 or old A9 road. The Cairngorms should be on my left most of the way, providing a stunning backdrop.

I’ve got a room booked in Pitlochry to look forward to. I expect a shower, bed and electric charging points will all be very welcome, 382km and 3400m elevation into the journey.

Day 4: 18th May – Pitlochry to Auchengray
(137km, 1507m elevation)

By this point, I imagine I’ll start to appreciate just how long Scotland is! Although I only skim the edge of Edinburgh, I will be cycling over the iconic Forth Road Bridge over the Firth of Forth. That should be something special. From there, it’s a steady climb to a wild camping spot around Auchengray.

Day 5: 19th May – Auchengray to Carlisle
(141km, 1173m elevation)

All being well, today marks the day I cycle over the Scotland/England divide, just north of Carlisle. By now, I can’t be confident of where I’ll finish each day. If I feel up for it, I may push past this point to give myself some grace later in the journey. Or I may find I’ve over-reached or stalled due to elements out of my control. Where I stay or camp each night will therefore need to remain flexible.

Day 6: 20th May – Carlisle to Garstang
(121km, 1390m elevation)

Cycling by Whinash Ridge and Shap Fell, I reach the second highest point on the tour, with the Lake District on the right and Yorkshire Dales on the left. Should be a beautiful cycle! Perhaps another wildcamp or campsite evening.

Day 7: 21st May – Garstang to Nantwich
(130km, 702m elevation)

The first of the two flattest days on the journey. I may decide to push ahead, to buy myself more breathing room before Cornwall. As it stands, I aim to reach Nantwich, cycling in recognisable terrain west and south of Manchester.

I also cycle right past Mel’s Dad’s house. Bob has kindly let me keep a stash of things at his – such as food, another gas canister and clean clothes! A welcome moment to ‘recharge’ some of my gear.

Day 8: 22nd May – Nantwich to Seifton
(96km, 829m elevation)

This day is markedly shorter than other days, as by coincidence, my route takes me past Rommany’s house in Seifton. Rommany has kindly offered me to stay for the night. However, I will be very aware I have some heavy cycling coming up, especially Day 11, and I may decide to cycle on and make some headway into Day 9. Or I may be very welcome of the rest!

Day 9: 23rd May – Seifton to Bristol
(142km, 1583m elevation)

Briefly crossing into Wales, I then cycle along the River Wye, regarded as one of the most beautiful sections of the whole trip! I then cycle over the Bristol Channel on The Severn Bridge back into England, on my way to Bristol.

Day 10: 24th May – Bristol to Tiverton
(121km, 1408m elevation)

Only three days to go now, in theory! The day starts (unless I’ve gotten ahead on the previous days) through the stunning Cheddar Gorge, then over the Quantock Hills and into Devon. This is the last sensible opportunity to bank time before Cornwall gets spiky. If I’ve got the legs, I’ll try to push on.

Day 11: 25th May – Tiverton to Nanpean
(138km, 2444m elevation)

Perhaps the toughest day of the whole trek. 2444m of elevation is insane, and why I may be keen on pushing ahead on the previous days, to make today more manageable. The elevation profile is a seemingly never-ending series of valleys, some with 20% inclines that will require walking! On weary legs, this will be…interesting.

But it should also be a stunning route, skimming north of Dartmoor as I enter my final county of Cornwall.

Day 12: 26th May – Nean Pean to Land’s End
(85km, 1114m elevation)

Final day – hopefully! I’d love for Day 12 to be a shorter day, so I can arrive at Lands End in good time, with everything open on May Bank Holiday. More gorgeous scenery, including cycling over Bodmin and past St Michael’s Mount (and Jelberts ice-cream parlour).

Mel and my parents are aiming to meet me there, which will be the perfect gift. Before being driven to parents’ in Buckfastleigh to sleep for 2 weeks.